Independent, ingredient-led skincare guidance How we review
FORMULA LITERACY

Read the formula.
Not the front label.

Twelve evidence-led field guides explain what familiar moisturiser ingredients do, where the research stops and how to choose a complete cream without chasing trends.

Explore the ingredient library
01 / OUR READING FRAMEWORK

Function first.
Claims second.

H

Humectants

Help the outer skin layer hold water. Usually strongest inside a formula that also softens and seals.

E

Emollients

Fill rough spaces and improve flexibility, slip and comfort.

O

Occlusives

Reduce water loss with a protective film. Richer is useful—not automatically better everywhere.

02 / INGREDIENT DIRECTORY

Twelve ingredients,
four useful families.

Learn what each ingredient does, where the evidence is strongest, who may need extra caution and which reviewed creams contain it.

01

Humectants

Ingredients that help the outer skin layer hold water.

HUMECTANT + SOFTENING ACTIVE

Urea

Urea is part of the skin’s natural moisturising system.

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WATER-BINDING HUMECTANT

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a water-binding polysaccharide used as a humectant.

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DEPENDABLE HUMECTANT

Glycerin

Glycerin—also called glycerol—is a humectant that helps the outer skin layer hold water.

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02

Barrier support

Lipids and supporting actives used in barrier-focused formulas.

BARRIER LIPIDS

Ceramides

Ceramides are waxy lipids naturally present between cells in the outer skin layer.

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VITAMIN B3 DERIVATIVE

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a vitamin B3 derivative used in moisturisers for barrier support and broader cosmetic benefits.

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LIGHTWEIGHT EMOLLIENT

Squalane

Squalane is a stable hydrogenated hydrocarbon used as a lightweight emollient.

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03

Occlusives

Ingredients that reduce water loss and add a protective finish.

HIGH-OCCLUSION CLASSIC

Petroleum Jelly

Petroleum jelly is purified petrolatum, an occlusive ingredient that forms a semi-occlusive surface film and reduces water loss.

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WOOL-DERIVED EMOLLIENT

Lanolin

Lanolin is a waxy material derived from sheep’s wool and used to soften skin and strengthen ointment texture.

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04

Plant-derived

Botanical emollients and soothing agents, with allergy context included.

PLANT-DERIVED EMOLLIENT

Shea Butter

Shea butter is a plant-derived fat used as an emollient and texture builder.

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SOOTHING SKIN PROTECTANT

Colloidal Oatmeal

Colloidal oatmeal is finely milled oat prepared to disperse in topical products.

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BOTANICAL SOOTHING AGENT

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera gel is a botanical ingredient used for a cooling, soothing feel.

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PLANT OIL + OCCLUSIVE

Coconut Oil

Virgin coconut oil is an emollient plant oil that can improve hydration and surface lipids in mild-to-moderate xerosis.

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03 / HOW TO USE THESE GUIDES

Ingredient pages are
a starting point.

A single INCI name cannot tell you its concentration, delivery, pH, stability or how the finished moisturiser feels. Our guides explain plausible function and published evidence, then return the decision to the complete formula.

Skin conditions need their own context. Dryness support is not equivalent to treating eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, infection or a non-healing wound.

Read our non-fear-based safety guide →
04 / CONTINUE YOUR RESEARCH

From ingredient to decision.

START WITH CONTEXT

Skin Conditions

Match moisturising support to the condition and know when a cream is not enough.

Explore conditions →
COMPARE THE CATEGORY

Best Creams

See ten-product shortlists built around use case, formula and value.

Compare creams →
CHECK THE PRODUCT

Reviews

Read formula facts, texture context and limitations for individual products.

Browse reviews →